mulch
Question:
I found a local tree cutter who was glad to dump truckloads of ground up trees in my driveway so he didn’t have to haul them to the dump and pay a tipping fee. I put down thick layers of newspapers to kill weeds and grass, then cover with wood chips. If existing weeds aren’t a problem, just put on several inches of chips. I also collect my neighbor’s grass clippings (obsessive-compulsive yard stripper) and put a good layer of those under the chips. Ground up leaves also can be added. These all hold in moisture and will break down to enrich the soil in time. Be sure to check nitrogen levels and Ph as these can be altered by mulches.
Response:
Just make sure that the woodchips (ex-trees) are not contaminated with termites or other insects. You might get more than you bargained for. Ron – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I found a local tree cutter who was glad to dump truckloads of ground up trees in my driveway so he didn’t have to haul them to the dump and pay a tipping fee. I put down thick layers of newspapers to kill weeds and grass, then cover with wood chips. If existing weeds aren’t a problem, just put on several inches of chips. I also collect my neighbor’s grass clippings (obsessive-compulsive yard stripper) and put a good layer of those under the chips. Ground up leaves also can be added. These all hold in moisture and will break down to enrich the soil in time. Be sure to check nitrogen levels and Ph as these can be altered by mulches.
Response:
and also I would like all of you to tell me what mulch youlike to use. I prefer a good quality hardwood mulch, which I get from my husband’s wholesale nursery by the truckfull. 3-4" in all of my perennial beds and I’m virtually weed free for the season.
I prefer bark mulch; obtained from a local lumbermill. Mostly softwood in origin. 2-4" thick in perennial beds, 3-6" in shrubberies. Every bed gets mulched. In my climate it helps overwinter perennials as well as reducing evaporation losses during the summers. Leo Smit, Nova Scotia
Response:
and also I would like all of you to tell me what mulch youlike to use.
I prefer a good quality hardwood mulch, which I get from my husband’s wholesale nursery by the truckfull. 3-4" in all of my perennial beds and I’m virtually weed free for the season. Lynne
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Hi- I am a young gardener who doesn’t have al day to spend gardening [as if you adults have any more time 
] but anyway, a always look to find time saving devices. Many years ago i read several books on mulch, but none of them talk about grass clippings. I personally like grass clippings: they are easy to get, they dry quickly and form a fluffy layer yet semi-compact, it feels good on yur feet , and it seems to mulch well. What I am writing for is I would like all of you to tell me if there are any negative or positive aspects of grass clippings I haven’t mentioned, and also I would like all of you to tell me what mulch you like to use. Please e-mail me directly also if you wish to respond. Thank you.
Grass clippings are excellent mulch for vegetables. I was going to say as much as you cen get but maybe you run a lawn service. A good rule of thumb is two inches green , 4 inches dry. If you put down two much fresh grass it tends to heat and burn sensitive plants. I don’t use grass clippings around tomatoes as I seem to have more trouble with fungi (blights etc) with grass than with leaves. No scientific proof however. Dill
Response:
Hi- I am a young gardener who doesn’t have al day to spend gardening [as if you adults have any more time ] but anyway, a always look to find time saving devices. Many years ago i read several books on mulch, but none of them talk about grass clippings. I personally like grass clippings: they are easy to get, they dry quickly and form a fluffy layer yet semi-compact, it feels good on yur feet , and it seems to mulch well. What I am writing for is I would like all of you to tell me if there are any negative or positive aspects of grass clippings I haven’t mentioned, and also I would like all of you to tell me what mulch you like to use. Please e-mail me directly also if you wish to respond. Thank you.
Response:
(Jimpneff) writes: Last October I heavily mulched all my trees and schrubs. Do I now need to remove the mulch or can I leave it around them?
You leave it right there, and add more each year as needed to refresh it. If the forest had to remove its natural mulch each year to flourish, we’d have no forests! It is quite natural for trees to be mulched. And very beneficial. Fluff the mulch with cultivator tines, (not a power tool like a rototiller) and add some air to it, but aside from that and adding more, you leave it in place. victoria
Response:
Last October I heavily mulched all my trees and schrubs. Do I now need to remove the mulch or can I leave it around them?
Response:
gooday jim, leave it there and add to it when as it breaks down. <http://www.globec.com.au/~ntbandit/ happy gardening
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Last October I heavily mulched all my trees and schrubs. Do I now need to remove the mulch or can I leave it around them?
Response:
Thanks, Pam and Victoria.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The mulch I use is a proprietary blend from a local landscape supply company. It is primarily composted manure mixed with about 25% sawdust and sand. It has excellent drainage, is very light and fluffy and a rich deep color. I buy it in bulk, about 15 yards at a time, and mulch my entire garden with it to a depth of about 3 inches. I do this in the spring after winter clean up but before the perennials fill out too much and again in late fall. Most of the weed seeds are underneath the mulch – the thick layer prevents them from germinating. Yeah, you get the odd weed seeds blowing in or donated thanks to birds, etc, but nothing like you would get without the mulch. And, whatever weed seeds do germinate are extremely easy to remove. Pam – gardengal PNW zone 8 What are the "compost type mulches" to which you refer? I’ve been using pine bark on my perennials simply because I like the way it looks. I’ve always tried to avoid getting it mixed into the soil because, as you note, it doesn’t add much and presumably takes a long time to decompose. So when I fertilize or top dress, I sweep the mulch away and then sweep it back. I would be very interested in a mulch that could both work as a soil amendment when mixed in, and as a weed control when spread on top. Must admit, though, it sounds kind of contradictory to me — if it were fertile, why wouldn’t it serve to germinate unwanted seeds? JN I think the type of mulch you ultimately select has a great deal to do with where you are located. Different parts of the country seem to favor different types of mulches. And, what exactly you are going to mulch has some bearing als o. In the PNW, we tend to favor bark mulches made from cedar and other local conifers, at least for shrub beds. Gardeners who focus on perennial and annual plantings use more of the compost-type mulches. They tend to add more to soil than bark does and look alot richer in the beds. Whatever you choose, just make sure you apply it thick enough – nothing looks worse than a skimpy layer of mulch and it doesn’t work very well to suppress weeds or retain moisture if it is too thin. I shoot for a good three inches when I mulch. Pam – gardengal PNW zone 8
Response:
I actually use partially decomposed vegetative compost as mulch. I don’t have any right now, but I am making some as we speak. I buy bales of alfalfa hay and add brown from there. IN about 2 months I have yards of mulch, but which is also compost. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What are the "compost type mulches" to which you refer? I’ve been using pine bark on my perennials simply because I like the way it looks. I’ve always tried to avoid getting it mixed into the soil because, as you note, it doesn’t add much and presumably takes a long time to decompose. So when I fertilize or top dress, I sweep the mulch away and then sweep it back. I would be very interested in a mulch that could both work as a soil amendment when mixed in, and as a weed control when spread on top. Must admit, though, it sounds kind of contradictory to me — if it were fertile, why wouldn’t it serve to germinate unwanted seeds? JN I think the type of mulch you ultimately select has a great deal to do with where you are located. Different parts of the country seem to favor different types of mulches. And, what exactly you are going to mulch has some bearing also. In the PNW, we tend to favor bark mulches made from cedar and other local conifers, at least for shrub beds. Gardeners who focus on perennial and annual plantings use more of the compost-type mulches. They tend to add more to soil than bark does and look alot richer in the beds. Whatever you choose, just make sure you apply it thick enough – nothing looks worse than a skimpy layer of mulch and it doesn’t work very well to suppress weeds or retain moisture if it is too thin. I shoot for a good three inches when I mulch. Pam – gardengal PNW zone 8
Response:
What are the "compost type mulches" to which you refer? I’ve been using pine bark on my perennials simply because I like the way it looks. I’ve always tried to avoid getting it mixed into the soil because, as you note, it doesn’t add much and presumably takes a long time to decompose. So when I fertilize or top dress, I sweep the mulch away and then sweep it back. I would be very interested in a mulch that could both work as a soil amendment when mixed in, and as a weed control when spread on top. Must admit, though, it sounds kind of contradictory to me — if it were fertile, why wouldn’t it serve to germinate unwanted seeds? JN
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I think the type of mulch you ultimately select has a great deal to do with where you are located. Different parts of the country seem to favor different types of mulches. And, what exactly you are going to mulch has some bearing also. In the PNW, we tend to favor bark mulches made from cedar and other local conifers, at least for shrub beds. Gardeners who focus on perennial and annual plantings use more of the compost-type mulches. They tend to add more to soil than bark does and look alot richer in the beds. Whatever you choose, just make sure you apply it thick enough – nothing looks worse than a skimpy layer of mulch and it doesn’t work very well to suppress weeds or retain moisture if it is too thin. I shoot for a good three inches when I mulch. Pam – gardengal PNW zone 8
Response:
The mulch I use is a proprietary blend from a local landscape supply company. It is primarily composted manure mixed with about 25% sawdust and sand. It has excellent drainage, is very light and fluffy and a rich deep color. I buy it in bulk, about 15 yards at a time, and mulch my entire garden with it to a depth of about 3 inches. I do this in the spring after winter clean up but before the perennials fill out too much and again in late fall. Most of the weed seeds are underneath the mulch – the thick layer prevents them from germinating. Yeah, you get the odd weed seeds blowing in or donated thanks to birds, etc, but nothing like you would get without the mulch. And, whatever weed seeds do germinate are extremely easy to remove. Pam – gardengal PNW zone 8 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What are the "compost type mulches" to which you refer? I’ve been using pine bark on my perennials simply because I like the way it looks. I’ve always tried to avoid getting it mixed into the soil because, as you note, it doesn’t add much and presumably takes a long time to decompose. So when I fertilize or top dress, I sweep the mulch away and then sweep it back. I would be very interested in a mulch that could both work as a soil amendment when mixed in, and as a weed control when spread on top. Must admit, though, it sounds kind of contradictory to me — if it were fertile, why wouldn’t it serve to germinate unwanted seeds? JN I think the type of mulch you ultimately select has a great deal to do with where you are located. Different parts of the country seem to favor different types of mulches. And, what exactly you are going to mulch has some bearing also. In the PNW, we tend to favor bark mulches made from cedar and other local conifers, at least for shrub beds. Gardeners who focus on perennial and annual plantings use more of the compost-type mulches. They tend to add more to soil than bark does and look alot richer in the beds. Whatever you choose, just make sure you apply it thick enough – nothing looks worse than a skimpy layer of mulch and it doesn’t work very well to suppress weeds or retain moisture if it is too thin. I shoot for a good three inches when I mulch. Pam – gardengal PNW zone 8
Response:
I think the type of mulch you ultimately select has a great deal to do with where you are located. Different parts of the country seem to favor different types of mulches. And, what exactly you are going to mulch has some bearing also. In the PNW, we tend to favor bark mulches made from cedar and other local conifers, at least for shrub beds. Gardeners who focus on perennial and annual plantings use more of the compost-type mulches. They tend to add more to soil than bark does and look alot richer in the beds. Whatever you choose, just make sure you apply it thick enough – nothing looks worse than a skimpy layer of mulch and it doesn’t work very well to suppress weeds or retain moisture if it is too thin. I shoot for a good three inches when I mulch. Pam – gardengal PNW zone 8 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m in the process of mulching bush/flower/shrubbery areas around the house and along the driveway. I chose cypress mulch and it seems to be working out OK. I’ve even heard it doesn’t attact bugs as much as other mulches. I made the choice rather quickly just looking a various piles of different mulches. In the future what should I consider when choosing a mulch? Is there a favorite that most experienced gardeners tend to use?
Response:
I’m in the process of mulching bush/flower/shrubbery areas around the house and along the driveway. I chose cypress mulch and it seems to be working out OK. I’ve even heard it doesn’t attact bugs as much as other mulches. I made the choice rather quickly just looking a various piles of different mulches. In the future what should I consider when choosing a mulch? Is there a favorite that most experienced gardeners tend to use?
Response:
I’m partial to shredded hardwood mulch. Seems to keep weeds down, holds water, works well on slopes, and looks good. Lasts quite a while, too – if I put down a fairly heavy application (3" or so) it will last well over a year, and only require a top dressing of fresh mulch for appearance sake. And, the price is pretty good: about $2 per two-cubic-foot bag. Gandy
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I’m in the process of mulching bush/flower/shrubbery areas around the house and along the driveway. I chose cypress mulch and it seems to be working out OK. I’ve even heard it doesn’t attact bugs as much as other mulches. I made the choice rather quickly just looking a various piles of different mulches. In the future what should I consider when choosing a mulch? Is there a favorite that most experienced gardeners tend to use?
Response:
Can pine needles be used as mulch around shrubs as a substitute for wood mulch
Sure. If you have shrubs like azaleas, they grow much better with such a mulch. — The Sonnier Brothers Band: http://www.concentric.net/~slaroche/SONNIER.HTM "Nah nah nah, gonna have a good time!"
Response:
Can pine needles be used as mulch around shrubs as a substitute for wood mulch
Yes; and they decay a little slower. Great if you have a bunch of trees dropping needles where you don’t want them. Chris Owens
Response:
Can pine needles be used as mulch around shrubs as a substitute for wood mulch
Response:
For good weed control, don’t shred the newspaper. Weeds can still come up. Just lay down several thicknesses (I use a section of the newspaper), overlap them (no gaps for weeds) wet them down (so they don’t blow). Then cover it all with enough mulch (your choice – I live in pine tree country so I use pine needles; if I didn’t have them I guess my choice would be shredded bark) so that you can’t see the newspapers. Works fantastically well. The newspaper composts in place and actually adds to the soil. Don’t use the colored sections; some still use petroleum based colors.
That’s good if you have enough room between plants. However, in some of my beds, it is just impossible. I find that a half-inch [after compaction, starts out about 6" thick] layer of shredded paper prevents weeds from coming through just fine. I also do this in the veggie beds where I don’t want the expense of top mulch; shredded paper stays put much better when it dries out. Chris Owens
Response:
Chris, do you just rip it up by hand, or should it be finely shredded, as by a machine? I hope it’s by hand….Don’t need another machine in my life!!!!
I shred ALL the recyclable paper that comes into this house by machine. However, before I owned a shredder, I did it just fine by hand. Chris Owens
Response:
Chris, do you just rip it up by hand, or should it be finely shredded, as by a machine? I hope it’s by hand….Don’t need another machine in my life!!!! Cate, or Emma Rose’s Mommy
For good weed control, don’t shred the newspaper. Weeds can still come up. Just lay down several thicknesses (I use a section of the newspaper), overlap them (no gaps for weeds) wet them down (so they don’t blow). Then cover it all with enough mulch (your choice – I live in pine tree country so I use pine needles; if I didn’t have them I guess my choice would be shredded bark) so that you can’t see the newspapers. Works fantastically well. The newspaper composts in place and actually adds to the soil. Don’t use the colored sections; some still use petroleum based colors. — Ladybug
Response:
My spring/summer garden is starting to fade and I’m putting together my first Fall to Spring garden. We moved in here just last May so I haven’t done much gardening yet. (BTW, it’s a rental with, so far, small gardening space.) I plan to put in some bulbs and want to put in mostly perinneals — aiming for a cottage garden look. Anyway, after this past summer, I’m convinced I need better mulching; both for nutrients and for weed control. What’s a good mulch material (particularly for weed control)? I live in No. California – zone 10 I believe. (And why is this zone different that the zones provided by Sunset Cate, or Emma Rose’s Mommy
Response:
My spring/summer garden is starting to fade and I’m putting together my first Fall to Spring garden. We moved in here just last May so I haven’t done much gardening yet. (BTW, it’s a rental with, so far, small gardening space.) I plan to put in some bulbs and want to put in mostly perinneals — aiming for a cottage garden look. Anyway, after this past summer, I’m convinced I need better mulching; both for nutrients and for weed control. What’s a good mulch material (particularly for weed control)?
We lay a thick layer of shredded paper, soak it down, and cover with a thin layer of shredded bark [for looks]. I live in No. California – zone 10 I believe. (And why is this zone different that the zones provided by Sunset Magazine?
USDA zones are based on lowest winter temperature. Sunset zones are based on hours of daylight. Once one has moved out of the zones where frost hardiness is a problem, the sunset zones work better for deciding what kinds of plants to put in, as the amount of light becomes the controlling variable. Chris Owens
Response:
: We lay a thick layer of shredded paper, soak it down, and cover with a : thin layer of shredded bark [for looks]. Chris, do you just rip it up by hand, or should it be finely shredded, as by a machine? Priscilla (considering mulching options herself) — Zone 6 urban gardener First time householder Adoptive mom to Caley (calico sweetie) and Benjamin (skittish tuxedo boy)
Response:
Chris, do you just rip it up by hand, or should it be finely shredded, as by a machine?
I hope it’s by hand….Don’t need another machine in my life!!!! Cate, or Emma Rose’s Mommy
Response:
Has anyone know the pros and cons of uecalyptus mulch? I attended a local seminar where one of the topics was mulch and found out that the cypress mulch that I was using (because I like the look) is actually environmentally incorrect. Apparently, the Everglades are being torn up to get a lot of this mulch. When I found this out, I decided to never use cypress mulch again. At the same seminar, eucalyptus mulch was promoted as one of the alternatives. Someone said that this mulch deters termites. Is this true? Does it deter other bugs, too…even the good ones? While I am really interested in the idea that termites don’t like this mulch, I don’t want the good guys to go away as well. Gretchen Vroom central Florida, USA
Response:
Mulch is any organic matter put on top of the soil so the soil will stay moist. The mulch will also turn into fertlizer. Pine needles are good, but they will turn the soil acid, so you may have to put limestone on the ground. Use manure, paper, grass clippings, leaves, shreeded tree limbs, etc.
Response:
Mulch is any dry organic matter used as a top dressing to keep moisture in and weeds down. Some look better than others;
deleted discussion on mulches. A black plastic mulch, on the other hand, requires only a single thickness (but it sure is ugly!)
AND when wet one can quickly land on their keister! Black plastic can warm the soil as well. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –
Response:
Pat pine needles are fine for mulch. They work well for azaleas or other acid loving plants. Pine needles can add acidity to the soil but since I’m assuming you get them from your yard, the soil will likely be acid anyway. get a soil test sometime to determine the pH of the soil. If 5 or below you might want to add some lime to bring up the pH to about 5.5-7 DEPENDING on what you are growing. BTW – the only "dumb" questions are the ones never asked. keith
Response:
Mulch is any dry organic matter used as a top dressing to keep moisture in and weeds down. Some look better than others; but even grass clippings can be used as mulch. Go ahead and use the pine needles in the rose bed.
Well, I’d amend that definition to "mulch is dry material used to keep moisture in the soil", because you can certainly use stone for mulch, or even a dust mulch (cultivate the top 1/4" of soil till it is fluffy and dry; it will help hold water in the soil below it; useful in semi-arid areas). Mulch is also used to keep down weeds, but in order to do that, the soil must be well-shaded. With a mulch like pine needles or grass clippings, 3-4" thickness is usually required to keep the weed seed from germinating. A black plastic mulch, on the other hand, requires only a single thickness (but it sure is ugly!)
Response:
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -This is a dumb question – I know it’s dumb, and I should know better. But what is considered mulch? I’ve got an abundance of pine needles; are these usable? Only in specific situations? Is there a *best* mulch to use under roses? Is it better to buy a bag of something that says mulch, or should I be looking for a specific type of product? Are some things better than others, and some things I should avoid at all costs? Thanks for serious consideration of my dumb, but serious question. Pat Ryan in CA
Mulch is any dry organic matter used as a top dressing to keep moisture in and weeds down. Some look better than others; but even grass clippings can be used as mulch. Go ahead and use the pine needles in the rose bed. Chris Owens
Response:
This is a dumb question – I know it’s dumb, and I should know better. But what is considered mulch? I’ve got an abundance of pine needles; are these usable? Only in specific situations? Is there a *best* mulch to use under roses? Is it better to buy a bag of something that says mulch, or should I be looking for a specific type of product? Are some things better than others, and some things I should avoid at all costs? Thanks for serious consideration of my dumb, but serious question. Pat Ryan in CA
Response:
Our company gives, a full-service tree care firm, gives away free wood chips to use as mulch around trees and shrubs. It’s low cost and looks great
Response:
Where are you located? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Our company gives, a full-service tree care firm, gives away free wood chips to use as mulch around trees and shrubs. It’s low cost and looks great
