Dg barking when left alone or put in cage
Question:
Here’s MOORE: ALL behavior problems are CAUSED BY MISHANDLING. PART II 1. Obedience We’ll be approaching our obedience training program as a piecemeal quilt puzzle; that is to say, that any one point has got to fit within the entire context, and as you develop skills, you may "mix and match" commands to suit your needs or situation at that moment. But we do have a procedure that is very much like the kind of steps you would follow as though you were starting your car or computer system. These steps are like your keys to your car or password to your files. It’s unlikely that your dog, when trained, will listen to anyone that does not approach the "control panel" to his mind, without the "keys" imbedded in this series of commands. He’ll understand that anyone asking business of him is not approved, without "them keys." Practice on a daily basis should not exceed four minutes to accomplish the exercises. Practice needs to be performed at least every second day. With problem dogs, this is critical. If you are using this training to suffice your dog’s emotional needs, whether it be anxiety from separation, aggression, or stress from any source, the benefits of this exercise will wear off in three days, at least until some time down the road. Also, dogs do tend to forget a lesson if it has not been re-enforced for several days. After the initial training period, practice may be limited to once a week. When your dog becomes fully trained and his behavior is not an issue or goal for improvement, a brief exercise should be formally done once a week, later once a month. We are going to give your pet 100% of your undivided positive attention, in an intense, four- minute exercise, which will have the benefit of exercising the dominant and submissive nature of your dog’s personality. These "natures of your dog’s personality" are easily accessed through the positions and postures in relationship to yourself, as you and your dog perform your obedience routines. Each position will elicit particular sorts of body language from your dog (and vice versa, so act natural). If you pay close attention you can determine how well or not your dog is relating to you. Each exercise or command in the following text will articulate what must be paid close attention, and how to make this knowledge work for you and your dog. We have special routines to break stress and tension, as well as methods to express dominance and elicit and enforce strict, exacting discipline. You will develop a feel for these as you progress through this system. The Method GUARANTEES total non physical control, but you’ve got to give up forced control entirely or you’ll be challenging the dog and you’ll learn the hard way…"I told you so." Any time you are in doubt about what your next move should be, just relax, take your time to review in your mind the exercise you are performing, and then execute the correct move. Everything has a particular progression. Admittedly, this is a complicated system. HOWEver, there is no need to worry about mastering the technique and psychology involved right away. It will become very clear as you begin to wo rkonit. Just as we will expect your dog to learn something new with practice, you too will develop a sense for what we are doing, but only with practice. You’ll develop a feel for what we’re doing. The pieces fit together like a jigsaw puzzle, and, like a jigsaw puzzle, you start by dumping the whole thing out in front of you and then try to put it in some sort of order. Think of our method like that puzzle. Keep in mind also that things change here, according to what has been mastered. 2. Ask Your Dog To Work We’ll start with a preliminary command to set the tone for our lesson. Ask your dog if he would like to go to work. Do so in an upbeat manner, with a questioning tone, as you lean or step backward just a little bit, praising all the while. (For more details on this, see the "Hot and Cold" exercise, in Part I of the W.E.D.T.M. Manual.) We don’t care if he wants to "go to work" or not. He’s going to, but we would do much better if he were looking forward to enjoying it. This does not mean we’re going to play, because just as soon as you finish this phrase "Do you want to go to work? Good boy," you’re going to follow through with his next command to come to order. 2A. Back To Work "Back to work," is his next command, it’s rather like the command "attention" in the military. It functions as a tool we can utilize to command his attention under emergency conditions as well as for daily requests to come to order… "Back to work" is to be followed in the same breath, without pausing or hesitating, with the forthcoming commands, while at the same time giving the hand signals and foot signals. It’s going to seem much like rubbing your head and patting your stomach at the same time. There are several events that are going to take place one after the other, quickly in succession. Your hand signal and foot signal will coincide with the voice commands. It’s crucial that signals and voice commands all coincide, as your dog will be learning all of these at once. 2B. Stay The "stay" command is very complicated. There are two hand signals and a foot signal as well as, of course, your voice command. It changes depending on whether you are at the side or "heel" position, or at a distance in front of him, or whether you are leaving his side with him remaining behind, or if you are returning toward him. Don’t worry about anything other than the hand signal from the side at this point. Leaving your dog on the stay command is covered later. It’s simple, but get used to the basics first. Stay from the side is a sweeping motion with your left hand coming forward, high from above your elbow, fingers together, as if to touch the tip of your middle finger to the top of your dogs nose, being careful to keep your hand from breaking into your dogs vision directly over his head. We don’t need to be close, just in the line of peripheral vision at about 15 degrees his snout. Give it high and forward of your body. Follow through by bringing your hand back up and sweeping it around toward your chest, placing your left wrist at your dog’s right shoulder, as you place your palm on his breast bone, as you pat him once or twice, and continue into the "sit straight" (or "stand straight" or "down straight") command, described below. What I’m trying to show is the stay signal comes in high in front and is brief.The hand then recedes high in an arch towards the handler before coming into the dog’s chest parallel to his right shoulder. The idea being that we don’t want to lean over the dog to set his chest, neck, and head. It’s a defensive position as some dogs may snap, that’s why we’re calming them in the forthcoming moves. 2C. Sit From The Side Sit from the side involves just the hand and voice signals. The left palm comes up, until your elbow is bent ninety degrees. In due course, all you’ll need to do is cup your palm. But for now, let’s make it easy for your dog to notice. Sounds pretty easy, so let’s throw in some body language. Before your dog has completed any command in these series, the next command in that series will be issued. We will do this slowly, so that your dog can think out what you are asking yet moving into the next phase before the prior has been completed. Not too slowly, but not too fast. You’re going to be leading and directing his attention, rather than his body. His body will follow his attention and thoughts. When you are ready to begin the "return to heel command," get a visual fix on a landmark, so as to be sure to orient yourselves correctly after your dog has completed sitting. At the beginning, we’ll not worry too much about this orientation, or for that matter, any orientation, but it will quickly become extremely important to be precise. Your hand signal for "return to heel" is with your left index finger, pointing to the ground just behind your left side, as you look down and back, toward where your finger is pointing. Leaning your weight on your right foot, so as to facilitate the movement of your left foot signal, just about one half step backward, not too far so as to lose balance, but enough to get your dog inspired to move. This is an action command, and the motion you use will help start your dog’s movement. At the same time your left foot moves, your hand signal and eyes will be pointing and moving in sync with your foot, as your upper body twists, just kind of a quarter turn left twist of your upper body as your foot moves, and back to forward. "Back to work, heel, good boy, nice dog, sit, stay, good dog." That’s your voice command to get him to the return to heel position. When this series has finished, and while you are still saying "good dog," you’ll need to pat him, just once or twice on his chest, as you give him his next command to "sit straight," and adjust his front square at your side, by lifting his weight by his breast bone, and move his front just a little, as you help (actually cheat), by adjusting yourself at the same time to be square at the heel position. Next, run your hand from his breast bone up under his throat, to his chin, at which point you’ll repeat your stay signal, as you run your hand down one side of his body from the left shoulder down along his ribs. Then the right side, then, to one front foot, then the next. You’ll see later. 2D. Heel vs. Return to Heel The heel position means your dog’s shoulders must be parallel to your knees. Return to heel is the means by which he arrives there. Both commands are action words and require movement on your part to teach your dog what it means. The voice command for both tasks is the same. The movement of your left foot and the direction you point your index finger and direct your eyes do change, depending whether you are going to move forward on the heel, or to have your dog return at your … read more »
Response:
HOWEDY Brian,
Our new dog barks constantly
Barking is a SYMPTOM of anxiHOWESNESS. You can CURE that NEARLY INSTANTLY, if you know HOWE. MAYBE FASTER. when we leave for work and the neighbors are complaining.
Your dog will GET SICK on you for lockin IT in a box and IGNORING or PUNISHING IT, Brian. MOST of the DOG LOVERS you’re asking for HEELP got SICK DOGS from STRESS INDUCED AUTO-IMMUNE DIS-EASE aka The Puppy Wizard’s SYNDROME. He also starts barking everytime we put him in his cage.
Your dog is AFRAID of being locked in a box. We tried a citronella collar,
Dogs don’t LIKE gettin sprayed in the face with aversives, Brian. THAT will DRIVE THEM INSANE, Brian. but he has learned to bark until its empty
lyinglynn writes to a new foster care giver: For barking in the crate – leave the leash on and pass it through the crate door. Attach a line to it. When he barks, use the line for a correction. - if necessary, go to a citronella bark collar. Lynn K. and we are contemplating a static collar…
You mean a STATIC LIKE STIMULATION collar for your BEAST FRIEND, eh Brian?
He was next to me and I could see his neck muscles pulsing. He didn’t even blink an eye. Janet Boss
I can’t imagine needing anything higher than a 5 with it, even with an insensitive dog like a Lab.
An INSENSITIVE DOG??? Opinions?
"Granted That The Dog Who Fears Retribution Will Adore His Owner," lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn. captain arthur haggerty SEZ: "A CHIN CHUCK" Makes A ResoundingSound Distraction: "When You Chuck The Dog The Sound Will Travel Up The Mandible To The Ears And Give A Popping Sound To The Dog." "I’d call the SHOCK fence effective and safe. Humane is one of those hot words that people can debate all day so I won’t touch that one. There are people who would call a regular chain link fence inhumane," liea altshuller. "I know this is a hard subject to bring up without starting the whole cruelty thread again so I’ll state my opinion once and won’t defend it further: any method can be cruel for some dogs. Even the slightest punishment was wrong for Cubbe at the beginning, but we’ve come a long way since then. She trusts us now as I mentioned in a recent post. Point is, she’s been rewarded for coming, but she’s never been punished, even in the mildest way, for not coming. Is it time for that? What might I look for to tell?"
After talking with the vet yesterday and watching Cubbe all day today, I’m convinced that the shaking is behavioral, not physical. Naturally I’ll continue keeping an eye on her, but when I add everything up, I don’t see symptoms of anything neurological– and the vet agrees. –Lia
"Things are beginning to get much worse day by day and the vets seem unable to help. http://www.oofus.com/pix/PoorRufusMed.WMV http://www.oofus.com/pix/PoorRufusSmall.WMV" THAT’S AN OCD. His owner CAUSED IT by MISHANDLING and ABUSING his dog according to the BEST advice of HOWER Gang Of Lying Dog Abusing Punk Thug Cowards And ACTIVE LONG TERM INCURABLE MENTAL CASES and ASYLUM ESCAPEES. ONLY DOG ABUSERS POST HERE abHOWETS, Brian. You can CHANGE THAT, but you WON’T, on accHOWENT of THAT is the NATURE of the BEAST. HERE’S EVERY THING YOU GOTTA KNOW abHOWET HOWE to pupperly handle and train your dogs, children and SP-HOWESES: Study my manual carefully and follow all the instructions and exercises precisely and you’ll get 100% TOTAL NON PHYSICAL CONTROL NEARLY INSTANTLY. It’d help to study the manual using a text to speech reader. There’s a free one at http://www.readplease.com Ask me if you need any additional free heelp. "The Methods, Principles, And Philosophy Of Behavior Never Change, Or They’d Not Be Scientific And Could Not Obtain Consistent, Reliable, Fast, Effective Results For All Handler’s And All Dogs, NEARLY INSTANTLY, As Taught In Your FREE Copy Of The Puppy Wizard’s FREE WWW Wits’ End Dog Training Method Manual," The Puppy Wizard. <{} ; ~ ) You GET The Critter You TRAINED A DOG Is A Dog; As A KAT Is A KAT; As A BIRDY Is A BIRDIE; As A CHILD IS A CHILD; As A SP-HOWES Is a SP-HOWES. ALL Behavior Problems Are CAUSED BY MISHANDLING ALL Critters Only Respond In PREDICTABLE INNATE NORMAL NATURAL INSTINCTIVE REFLEXIVE Ways; To Situations And Circumstances Of Their Environment Which We Create For Them. Damn The Descartean War of "Nature Vs Nurture." We Teach By HOWER Words And Actions And GET BACK What We TAUGHT. Welcome to The Amazing Puppy Wizard’s FREE WWW Wits’ End Dog Training Method Forums. Set DHOWEN. RELAX. Take off your shoes. Care for a stick of gum? Smoke ‘m if you got ‘m. "It is by muteness that a dog becomes so utterly beyond value." Like a confessor Priest? "With him, –John Galsworthy. Don’t bet your dog won’t tell on you… Their behaviors reflect HOWER words, actions and training quirks. Jerry HOWE, The Puppy Wizard. <{} ; ~ ) If you can’t train ALL behaviors NEARLY INSTANTLY withHOWET PAIN FEAR FORCE BRIBERY AVOIDANCE or INTIMIDATION you’re using an ineffective method or you’re doin it wrong. The fameHOWES horse trainer Monty Roberts AGREES, and teaches similar techniques, begining with his version of The Amazing Puppy Wizard’s Family Ledership Exercise. Monty’s 100% NEARLY INSTANTLY SUCCESSFUL techniques teaches us to "JOIN UP" with the horse, using EFFECTIVE NON PHYSICAL PSYCHOLOGICAL TECHNIQUES and PRINCIPLES of behavior as taught in your FREE copy of The Amazing Puppy Wizard’s FREE WWW Wits’ End Dog Training Method Manual. Monty sez abHOWET bribery and food luring: he’s "NEVER seen a horse run to the next blade of grass." Monty teaches UNCONDITIONAL LOVE TRUST GENTLENESS and CONSISTENTCY and applies his techniques to problem children he fosters at his ranch, as well as doin business consultation for managemet personell of corporations. Monty has FHOWEND as The Amazing Puppy Wizard SEZ: In The Problem Animal Behavior BUSINESS FAILURE MEANS DEATH. SAME SAME SAME SAME, For The Problem Child Behavior BUSINESS. "If you talk with the animals, they will talk with you and you will know each other. If you do not talk to them, you will not know them, and what you do not know you will fear. What one fears, one destroys." Chief Dan George Here’s ALL the INFORMATION you need to pupperly handle and train your dog: The Wits’ End Dog Training Method Jerry Howe Copyright 8/24/2002 Phone: 1-888-WITSEND Phone: 1-407-425-5092 http://www.doggydoright.com TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION 3 HOW IS WITS’ END DOG TRAINING DIFFERENT? 4 PART I 1. METHODOLOGY 6 1A. Common Misunderstandings 7 1B. Learn Today! 9 2. GETTING STARTED 12 2A. First Things First: Proper Lead Handling 12 2B. What is a Conditioned Reflex? 14 2C. How to Install a Conditioned Reflex and Teach Any Command in Minutes 15 3. The "Hot" and "Cold" Exercise 19 4. The "Family Pack Leadership" exercise 20 5. Practicing the "Recall" or "Come" Command 22 6. Teach Any Command Through Conditioned Reflex 23 7. Use Sound to Break Bad Behavior! 24 (Also see conclusion) 7A. Other Examples of Sound to Correct Bad Behavior 26 7B. Unacceptable Expressions of Dominance 27 7C. More Subtle Examples of Unacceptable Dominance 28 7D. How to Correct Mouthing 29 7E. No Dogs on Beds! And Other Problems 33 7F. Housebreaking Technique 8. Roll-Over on the Alpha Rollover 34 The Alpha Rollover 34 9. Separation Anxiety Surrogate Toy Technique 36 9A.The Soggy Potato Chip Theory 37 10. THE WITS’ END DOG TRAINING METHOD GLOSSARY 38 10A. State Conditioned Learning 10B.Training Behaviors Using Territorial Instinct 10C. Anchoring And Triggering States Of Mind 10D. Escape, Fence Jumping, Border/Perimeter Training PART II 1. OBEDIENCE 46 2. ASK YOUR DOG TO WORK 47 2A. Back to Work 48 2B. Stay 49 2C. Sit From the Side 49 2D. Heel vs. Return to Heel 50 2E. Sit From the Front 51 3. THE HEELING PATTERN EXERCISE 52 3A. Down From the Side 56 3B. Leave Your Dog on a Stay Command 57 3C. Returning to the Heel Position 58 3D. Down From the Front 59 4. PRACTICING LONG STAY COMMANDS 60 5. STAND 62 Introduction The Wits’ End Dog Training Method is the fastest, gentlest, most effective, comprehensive behavior modification/obedience and protection training technique available anywhere… And now, it’s FREE!!! It’s copyright 2002 information, so be advised: use it wisely, and use it often; use, copy, and distribute it in it its entirety or none at all. Our no force, no nonsense, no negative re-enforcement approach is unique, systematic, and unconventional, which means no dog is too … read more »
